Sunday, March 21, 2010

The Extraordinary Adventures of Adele Blanc-Sec

This is a movie coming out this year based on a comic book from the seventies about a character in 1910. So not Victorian in the least bit, but I thought it would be something you fine folks might enjoy.

Friday, March 12, 2010

Hats!

I do apologize ladys and gents, but work has been quite hectic lately, and I have been unable to update. I will make it my goal to update more often.

Now, fot the much awated topic of hats.

Hats have been worn throughout history in every culture and serve very different purposes. I'm goin to focus only on a few styles of hat, though many do exist, and many would be appropriate for Victorian garb.

Many people when they try for Victorian garb, they automatically go for the top hat. This is unoriginal and often comes off as pretentious (though some men can get away with it, and it is a nice accessory to own and wear for special occasions). There are, however, many more options. One of the most vesatile and easily accessible hats is a flat cap. The flat cap is similar in construction to a baseball cap, but the crown fabric reaches to the edge of the brim. It is very classy, and can be worn by men in any rank in society. It's a nice going around town being outdoors, everyday kind of hat. It is perhaps one of my favorite. They also look good on any man and come fairly cheap and are found in many places.

A similar type of hat to the flat cap is the ascot cap. I honestly have no idea where the name comes from or if it shares any sort of similarity to the cravat of the same name. It looks like the flat cap but is made either of formed felt or of woven straw. They can be used in place of a flat cap.

Another one of my favorite types of hats is the derby or bowler (they're the same thing). The Bowler family's hat shop invented this style of hat in the mid-ninteenth century; it has nothing to do with bowling or bowling balls. Now my predilection for the bowler originates from John Steed (who though is not Victorian, no one would disagree that he is a dapper gent), and I even wear it cocked to the side like he did. This is a hat you can have fun with, though it is mainly a winter hat. It is also easily considered Victorian without being a top hat. Also, you can dress it up or down. Nice nice.

Top hats are always a tricky sort. Not very many men can pull them off. Either you look pretentious or you look like you are playing dress up. There are some rules one should follow when wearing a top hat. They were mainly for the rich or for formal wear, so if you are rish or going to a formal or semi-formal occasion, wear a top hat. I generally don't like them on me because they make my big head look bigger, but trying on various top hats if you have the opportunity to do so (which isn't often in today's world) you can find on that fits you better.

The boater, a straw brimmed hat with a flat crown is nice for someone who has a fun or saucy personality. No one will take you too seriously in a boater. It's a nice leisure hat, tough it is strictly for the summer.

Another typical hat to wear is the deerstalker cap which is stereotypically worn by Sherlock Holmes (though I don't think it ever mentions one in the books). It is a nice winter cap because it has flaps that come down and cover your ears. a pith helmet is a nice Victorian hat. You may think of it as something some safari guy would wear (and you'd be correct). These two hats are nice, but not eant for everyday wear. Actually, you will probably get Sherlock Holmes and safari comments all day if you do. Don't let this discourage you from what you want to wear, but just be aware of this fact.

The homburg and porkpie hats are nice semi-formal to occasional hats that were very common in the Victorian era, though they were more commonly associated with later time periods, so d mae sure that if this is your style, Victorianize the rest of your attire so people get it.

There are a few other styles of hats that fit this time period, and feel free to ask me more questions or even do further research on your own.

Also, do not wear fedoras! They were strickly women's wear until the 1930s.

How to care for your hat

Many times your hats are not washable, and sadly many times they are not even waterproof.

So what does one do? Well, scotchguard and foot odor spray. Do have a tester spot to make sure the sprays don't damage them, but they do work well.

Also, making friends with those in your local hat shop always comes in handy. They can usually do a nice stretching (if you do get your hat wet) or recommend some good products, reshapers, whatever.

Lint rollers don't usually work on hats, but wrapping a little tape around four of your fingers does the trick to daily cleaning off lint and such.

If you have a formal attire hat, please get a hat box for it.

All in all, hats generally aren't too bad to take care of.

Hat rules

In general and felt or fur hat is fall/winter wear and a straw, linen,or cotton (or satin or silk in case of formal hat) hat is spring/summer wear. We can be a little more flexable now-a-days, but you will actually feel more comfortable in a hat ment for the appropriate season.

Hats are outdoor wear. Simple.

I really should probably say to stick with black, brown, or grey hats, but you know, just have fun. It puts the punk in the steampunk. And we do this to have fun anyway.

Resources

Kangol hats are realy good quality, and they are a nice place to get flat caps and ascots.
http://www.kangolstore.com
They're nice and will last youa long time, though you really don't need to spend so much if you don't want. There are other options for those two types of hats. Try Target, for instance for something cheap. Or do what I did and go the middle route. I chose a flat cap by Scala wich is nice and classy and durable yet priced in the middle. You do get what you pay for, so keep that in mind.

My bowler is a Bailey bowler.
http://www.baileyhats.com
I love it. I's also a mid-priced hat, but it's been pretty durable and kept its shape fairly well. It's been easy to take care of. I love my bowler.

Though I have not actually had experience buying hats from these people, the Gentleman's Emporium looks nice and caters specifically to our Victorian style needs.
http://www.gentlemensemporium.com

Well, that about covers it. Enjoy putting stuff on your head, and have fun with it. Try out new things. See what is you.

That is all,
The Notorious Dr. Dietrich

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Inspiration

My friend Sami gave me some pictures of Victorian (actually Gilded Age since they seem to be American) men as a gift, and I thought I'd share as inspiration.









































Sami told me that she searched for "Victorian men" on eBay for the pictures, so I did the same. I found this lovely moustache. I think I need to have a moustache that looks like that.



















Currently my moustache looks like this, but I've been planning on growing it out again to a nice handlebar anyway.













That is all,
The Notorious Dr. Dietrich

Thursday, February 4, 2010

Men's grooming and style tips: the Neo-Victorian way

Thank you for coming. Here are some simple tips for your enjoyment. This is just a taste of all that’s to come. Some of these topics I plan to revisit and go in to further detail in the future. Please sit back and enjoy.

1) How to tame facial hair.
Now facial hair has more cuticle layers than head hair. So first thing first, we need to soften those extra layers. The best way is to get a comb (cheap, black, plastic, 4-inch comb that you can get for forty cents anywhere; never leave home without it.) and comb in some lemon juice. Do this for about 2 weeks the first time you do it. Lemon juice can lighten hair though. In my case, I have naturally blond head hair and brown facial hair, so I like the lightening properties. Lemon juice needs light, however to lighten. So simple, if you wish to lighten facial hair, do this step in the morning, if not, do it in the evening. Be sure to wash out the lemon juice every night or you'll end up with lemon curd on your face. Next step. Condition. After the cuticle layers become penetrable, you can condition. Get a good conditioner (it doesn't have to be expensive, but the cheapest stuff doesn't work well). Simply put in conditioner every time you shower and then rinse it out afterwards. After a while, you'll notice your facial hair get softer and easier to tame.Step three. If you have any problems with wild curls or are striving for a certain style, get some moustache wax. It's not carried many places, but check your drug store. Throw out the brush it comes with; it's worthless. Use both your fingers and your black comb. Easy easy. Also, the less you use the better. It’s much easier to add more than it is to take some away.After the initial time, it'll be easier. Keep conditioning your facial hair every shower, and just do the lemon juice once or twice a week. Easy easy.

2) How to fix hat hair.
Now every gentleman knows how important it is to wear a hat when out in public (ask me about hats!). However, it's also very rude to wear a hat when your final destination is reached. Oh no! What about hat hair! Though a well fitted hat does give you less of a chance of having hat hair, it does happen sometimes. Sometimes you just have to live with it... at least for a while. If you go to a restaurant, unless you have to wait for your table (a perfect time to escape to a lavatory to perfect your coif), do not leave until after drinks are ordered. Then you can go and fix your hair. Since I tend to go without product, fixing hat hair is easy. I take out my trusty comb, comb my hair on the opposite direction and then comb it back. It won’t be perfect, but it'll get you through the evening with much more style than a flat hat head.

3) For the bespectacled gentleman
Though there are many places on the internet where you can get antique replica frames meant for a modern-sized head. These places include focusers.com and eyeglass.com (particularly http://www.eyeglass.com/perfectlyround.html ). Cool as these may be, you do run in to the problem of it's not an actual place. You cannot try them on before hand; there is no one there to adjust them to fit your face, and it's much more difficult to ask specific questions. However, all is not lost. I recently went to Lenscrafters and bought a new pair of glasses that have a very Victorian style. Good brands to look for are Chaps and D&G, and they will actually end up about the same price as a pair of replica windsors. Things to keep in mind: wire frames are best, oval, round, or the rare hexagonal are traditional, so steer away from rectangular.

4) Clothing
Now men run in to the problem of having a lack of clothing to chose from for his neo-victorian lifestyle. Internet searches will quickly become frustrating. Tip number one; learn to sew. Get a good sewing machine (or sew by hand, which people had done for thousands of years), Hobby Lobby often has sales on their Simplicity patterns, look in the books in the costumes section and there are numerous Victorian costumes to chose from (this is a good tip for our ladies as well). Also, get cheap clothes from a thrift store and practice altering. You will be glad you did. Eventually you will be able to make your own patterns and clothes from scratch.And if you've completely given up (it happens), don't lose hope. Though there are few Victorian gentleman's clothing stores online (and even les in the real world), my favorite I've found is gentlemansemporium.com. Absolutely stupendous.

5) Essentials
Always have a black comb no matter what your hair style. It fits easily into pretty much every pocket but a fob pocket. Handkerchiefs are forever useful whether you have a cold, need to wipe off your hands, bicycle seat, whatever, you need to cover your mouth from noxious fumes, whatever. Depending upon your look, and handkerchief can be worn in a breast pocket (of a jacket, never of a shirt), a back pocket (but do be aware that some people do apply sexual definitions to handkerchiefs in back pockets), or around the neck. Also, one way to be quite posh is to get a monogram in the corner, which can be quite cheap (or do it yourself for just buck or two). Hats are a necessity. Top hats can often be too pretentious for most men. Derbies/bowlers are a good choice for many, and flat caps or ascot caps are great for everyday wear. If you are lucky enough to have a local hat shop, make friends with the people there, you will be glad you did (also make friends with Scotchguard). You need a pocket watch. You can spend anything from $20 to $2000 on a watch. Cheap ones are great, and you can get multiples. Make friends with a shoe repair man; he is much more useful than you think. Always have a lint roller. I keep one by the front door and one at work. Last but not least, have calling cards. They can be as simple or as complicated as you desire. There are many places where you can get Victorian replica calling cards, but for a cheap solution, look for cheap or free business cards (vistaprint.com) and choose something simple.

6) Jut some good advice.
Remember little details are what makes a man from ordinary to extraordinary, so try to find those fun details and try to notice them in others (and compliments are nice too). Have fun, and be yourself so matter what level of Steampunk/Neo-Victorian that brings you. Last but not least, do take into consideration that we don't actually live in the Victorian era, so you don't have to be perfectly in character, and you CAN have modern amenitiesI hope you enjoyed this, and if you have any questions or want me to go into further detail, just comment. I hope everyone has enjoyed this enough to tell their friends.

That is all,
The Notorious Dr. Dietrich

Thursday, January 28, 2010

Welcome to Dr. Dietrich's Guide for the Dapper Gent.
Steapunk and Neo-Victorianism is a new and fun craze that has greatly grown in popularity, however, I've noticed that the vast majority of sites and info out there caters to women. So I deem to make this the central place for the Neo-Victorian gent. I plan on covering many different topics from grooming tips, fashion and style, Victorian gentlmen's tools and oddities, showcases of various people, websites, resources, etc., reviews of Victorian literature and the arts, and some Victorian history that may be of interest to men. I will try my best to do the most thorough research and be as historically acurate as possible (please feel free to correct me if I do in fact misinform you). I will also try to relate my personal experiences and I'll even try new things along the way (like eventually learning to use a straight razor).

Thank you for reading. All I ask is that you comment as much as possible. I want this to be as much of a community thing as it is something for me.

Sit back, grab a pipe and smoking jacket, and enjoy.